Highlights from London Fashion Week SS25: Chopova Lowena, Fashion East and Nensi Dojaka

Stylish crowds have been out in full force for London Fashion Week spring/summer 25, with established and upcoming talent alike hosting memorable shows to present their collections for the upcoming season.

On Thursday night (12 September), Swedish retailer H&M took over east London’s Copper Box arena for a blow-out party with singer Charli XCX, who fronts its AW24 campaign. The British Fashion Council (BFC) have continued to celebrate the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week, which begun earlier this year. The BFC’s hub returned to 180 The Strand, which is also hosting a retrospective curated by journalist and chair of the BFC’s Newgen committee, Sarah Mower, exploring the rich history of the event and its designers.

Here are Drapers’ highlights so far:

Chopova Lowena

Design duo Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons took guests underground, below Shoreditch Town Hall, for their namesake label’s SS25 show [main image above]. Entitled “Chuckaboo”, models raced through the winding, derelict rooms at high speed, accompanied by a blasting heavy metal soundtrack.

The collection was inspired by rodeo queens of the American West, with studs and spurs featuring on everything from denim jeans and cargo shorts to fitted waistcoats and bodices. The design duo have always played by their own rules and it has earned them a dedicated following – as usual, the audience was filled with guests wearing the label’s signature carabiner skirts and playful accessories. Speaking of, two partnerships were debuted for SS25 – one with Asics, where GEL Quantum 360 VIII sneakers were given the Chopova Lowena treatment and adorned with butterflies, rhinestones and flowers. The second, more surprisingly, was with Hellmann’s mayonnaise. A special version of the brand’s leather “Margaret” shoulder bag was designed to carry a jar of the much-loved condiment, accompanied by a Victorian silver spoon and Hellman’s blue charm. Perfect for all your summer picnic and barbeque needs, the bag will only be available in small quantities at Dover Street Market London. Casting for the show was filled with friends and family of the brand, of all ages and sizes, making for a wholly authentic and memorable LFW experience.

Standing Ground

Announced last week as one of the LVMH Prize winners, Michael Stewart’s label Standing Ground was a standout LFW show. Models moved slowly through a clean, brightly-lit white space, allowing guests to take in the detailed, sculptural shapes of the garments. Form-fitting gowns featured high-necked breast plates, gathered and ruched bodices, pleated and beaded skirts, all before hitting the floor in lengthy trains, creating the illusion of mythical, sea-like creatures. Block colours of red, pink, blue and yellow ran throughout the collection, alongside darker black and brown pieces in crushed velvet and leather. For the label’s first standalone show [Standing Ground was previously part of new talent initiative Fashion East] it is exciting to think what is yet to come from this emerging designer.

Completedworks

Last season, accessories and homeware label Completedworks enlisted the help of Dame Joanna Lumley for its London Fashion Week presentation. This time around, for an outdoor garden performance of “A Stone Is A Small Mountain”, a play in three acts by author Fatima Farheen Mirza, the starring role went to actress Dianna Agron. Agron circled a large mirrored box structure while a recorded monologue from fictional character Aliza played to audiences. Model Lily Cole appeared in the second act, and was accompanied by a violinist, in a play which explored “the challenges women – and in particular, female artists – face and the echoes of their story across time. As well as the way they find freedom through mischief and play,” said Mirza in a release. Bags, jewellery and carafes from the label all featured signature bow motifs, adding further to the exploration of femininity.

Chet Lo

For designer Chet Lo and his eponymous label, SS25 was all about his mother Mai-Wah Cheung. Entitled “Mai’s Blossoms” the collection pays homage to the maternal artist and educator, through its references to structural office wear. Lo’s signature spikes, in cobalt blue for SS25, were teamed with grown-up slate grey shirts, ties and pleated skirts. The combination made for a sleek and modern aesthetic, infused with just the right amount of playfulness. Not only were the clothes stronger than ever, but Lo invited 20 blind and low-vision guests to the show in partnership with Hair & Care, the same non-profit initiative that worked with Sinead O’Dwyer for her SS25 show in Copenhagen. Guests listened to audio descriptions and received fabric swatches to experience the collection.

Fashion East

Fashion East is always a highlight of the schedule, showcasing the best of London’s up-and-coming design talent. This season was no different. As guests entered the Truman Brewery, they were greeted by a large tree structure with models sat atop and a child swinging from a suspended branch. This was the work of Kitty Shukman, whose models also featured incredible prosthetics that made symbols such as a tribal cross and angel wings appear to be embedded within the skin.

Out into the courtyard, and you would be forgiven for mistaking label Sos Skyn’s models as a gaggle of girls waiting in line for the bathroom. Bright colours, patterns and accessories made up party-ready ensembles for SS25. Finally, onto the catwalk, where Olly Shinder, Nuba and Loutre each took turns to showcase their designs. Loutre’s collection particularly stood out – fur coats and hats, high-necked plaid jackets and flowing trenches and oversized bombers were instantly cool and street-ready.

Natasha Zinko

Natasha Zinko’s namesake label hosted its show in an east London warehouse late on Friday night. Guests were seated opposite a wall of large glass windows, behind which models began to appear. The show was entitled “Plastic” and explored humankind’s relationship with the substance and its many forms. As the show notes stated: “It is everywhere: inside our homes, our soil, water bottles, scattered dead across the seven seas, and – ever since one American housewife by the name of Timmie Jean Lindsey became the first person to receive silicone breast implants in the distant year of 1962 – within our very own mortal forms.” Models wore white doctor’s coats, armpit length plastic gloves, bandages on their faces, and in some cases, make-up to replicate the look of under-eye, post-operation bruising. Cheeky slogan T-shirts read “Who’s your surgeon?” and “Top up” commenting on modern society’s ever-growing obsession with injectables. To end the show, models filtered back outside behind the window, lining up individually to gaze at the audience within. It forced attendees to reflect on their own relationship with beauty, and was a powerful end to the first full day of shows.

Aaron Esh

Despite it only being Aaron Esh’s third London Fashion Week show, the brand gave the impression of being an old hand. Hosted in a cavernous Shoreditch warehouse, with a blaring rock soundtrack, this show oozed attitude from the moment the lights went up. Entitled “Growing Pains”, the collection focused on “Dressing up, and then dressing it down, never letting go of where you came from”. Sharply tailored blazers with skinny suit trousers and pointed-toe boots echoed back to 2010’s indie sleaze era, and the addition of leather, pussybow neck ties and sheer tops had a dose of 1970’s glam rock spirit. Styled with distressed baseball caps which carried the designer’s initials, this was a collection that felt both fresh and retro, in the best possible manner.

Nensi Dojaka

After taking two seasons off, Albanian-born designer Nensi Dojaka returned to the catwalk on Saturday night with her namesake label. Earlier this week the brand announced a collaboration with Calvin Klein, with a campaign starring actress Rebecca Ferguson. The underwear designs were shown as part of the SS25 show, such as bras and pants which feature delicate straps and hoop-ring embellishments. Elsewhere, floaty chiffon dresses in pastel colours floated down the runway, with plenty of party-ready cut-out designs and sequins which the brand has become known for. The designer became visibly emotional when appearing to take her bow for the show’s finale, and embraced her father who was sat on the front row.

Ebay

To kick off the official London Fashion Week schedule, resale platform Ebay hosted the “Endless Runway”, an event which had debuted at New York Fashion Week SS25. Composed entirely of second-hand pieces sourced on the platform and styled by Amy Bannerman, Ebay’s pre-loved style director, the show was a love letter to British designers, featuring Vivienne Westwood, Christopher Kane, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Chopova Lowena, JW Anderson and many more. At one point during the show one model took off her leather jacket and passed it to another, who slipped it on over his outfit before walking the catwalk, in a move that cleverly highlighted the notion of cyclical fashion.