‘Dumplings in Chinatown!’ Chicago Bears bask in UK life before Jags clash

Back in London for the first time in five years, Chicago Bears go into Sunday’s clash with Jacksonville in relaxed mode. Having won three of their opening five games with a week off next weekend, they have reason to be enjoying the trip. The Bears took a holistic approach to their latest NFL International Series sojourn, spending all week in the Hertfordshire countryside. It’s more minicamp than holiday, but the management were determined to ensure everyone has a life-enhancing experience in England regardless of what happens at Tottenham Hotspur Stadium against a Jaguars side far more at home in London.

Playing abroad in the NFL is rather different than nipping to Europe to play a Champions League, United Rugby Championship or Super League game. The party numbers nearer 200 than two dozen, a veritable travelling circus. There is a member of football staff for almost every one of the 53 players, plus media and commercial teams. So many that they need to stay in two different hotels.

The football Bears descended on a Hogwarts-esque country hotel in the village of Thundridge, home (briefly) last weekend to New York Jets and next week to Jacksonville themselves.

It was a Merchant Ivory as much as an NFL production. It could not be more English. The teams train on a bespoke football field wedged into the side of a rural golf course connected by Cold Christmas Lane at one end and Gentlemen’s Field at the other, rap music startling the pheasants as it boomed across the previously serene Rib Valley.

The Anglo-American media tucked into cucumber and mint crustless finger sandwiches, followed by scones and clotted cream, washed down with Earl Grey tea. Press conferences took place in the Orangery, interviews in the walled garden. Frankly, it would not have been particularly surprising had Colin Firth emerged from the pond and strode across the lawn in dripping jodhpurs.

“It’s a bit crazy for sure,” admitted the Bears rookie wide receiver Rome Odunze. “Every time you go to a new place it’s a bit of a culture shock. It’s been awesome to have this opportunity and make the most of it, as well as being here to win a football game.”

Last week the Jets cut it fine. They “followed the science” and decided to treat it like going to San Francisco – “a pretty quick trip – up and down,” said the then coach Robert Saleh – arriving Friday, leaving Sunday night, and travelling as little possible once they were here. That backfired. Even before the game veteran quarterback Aaron Rodgers expressed frustration at having no time to do anything interesting. A sluggish first-half display led to a narrow defeat by Minnesota Vikings at Tottenham and the axe fell on Saleh on Tuesday.

The Bears’ gentle GM, Ryan Poles, familiar to UK fans from the HBO documentary Hard Knocks, also claimed to have followed expert advice – from sports scientists working with international tennis stars – on how best to prepare, which resulted in the opposite approach. But there was a personal development side to the decision, too.

“Travelling the entire team in season brings a lot of challenges – and opportunities,” said Roles. “It’s the first time I’ve been in this area my entire life so just exploring it and seeing new parts of the world, is important just from a human element.”

His players certainly appreciated it. Having flown overnight on Monday, the Bears had Tuesday to themselves and made the most of it. While the logic was all about getting their body clocks right and preparing properly for Sunday, effervescent wide receiver DJ Moore could not hide his delight at spending his day off in London. “It was amazing. We ended up having a full tour. We ate dumplings in Chinatown! The biggest challenge? Not spending all our money shopping!”

While almost every NFL player has been boarding a plane every other week since they left home at 17 or 18 to go to college, some of those playing in the London games have never been abroad before.

Odunze’s only previous trip to Europe had been to Italy (yes, he was named after the Eternal City) so he also appreciated the club’s decision to come early. “It’s 100% so much better. The whole spirit of this is bringing something really important to American culture over to this side of the world and it means a lot more when the team gets to be involved in the community and culture a little bit, and enjoy some of the things it has to offer. I got to go down to the city of London, look around a bit and do some shopping, which was a lot of fun. I just like talking to people, different mindsets and personalities. I go low profile – I try not to wear anything from the Bears. I just want to have a general conversation. I didn’t get recognised which is nice – and the first time for a while.”

Odunze’s debut season success will rely on being found by the fellow rookie and star quarterback Caleb Williams. The NFL’s No 1 draft pick completed 15 passes to Odunze in the first five games. Despite not turning 23 until next month, Williams is far more travelled than many of his teammates. While reluctant to reel off where he’s been, he said: “I know that you learn from travel and I really enjoy it. I love food and I’m interested in architecture and it’s different wherever you go. Travel helps me reset during my off time.”

Viewers of the Hard Knocks will have seen how the cultured Williams belies the stereotypical images of the bombastic NFL player and narrow-focused quarterback. “I do things outside football, my hobbies, that I like, I be myself. The biggest thing is not trying to be in someone else’s shoes.”

Odunze is by contrast new to all this. Born in Utah and brought up in Las Vegas, Odunze spent four increasingly successful years with Washington Huskies at college in Seattle. At 21 he was moving to one of the world’s buzziest cities.

“Chicago is very different but it’s been really welcoming,” said Odunze, who is living alone in the city but has regular visits from his parents and girlfriend. “The biggest difference from college is having a good amount of free time. College is very strict and routine every day. Now you have to have your own routine and things that you like to do.”

After a flying start to his NFL career in which Bears offensive coordinator Shane Waldron fielded Odunze and Moore for almost every snap in weeks two and three, he is now sharing wide receiver duties with Keenan Allen.

“It’s not like college where some weeks you know you’re going to have a good day, go out there and blow a team out,” said the friendly Odunze. “In the NFL every game and everyone is tough. I need to make sure I have all the skills and assets to compete at this level, which to this point in the season I think I do have, and keep sharpening and elevating.”

Poles is happy with Odunze’s start. “He’s done a really good job. The tough part about being a receiver is you run a route and sometimes you’re not seen but you’ve got to remain patient and stay alive. I’m happy with where he’s at. He’s going to keep improving.”

Having been an All-American and National Championship finalist with the Huskies, Odunze was under pressure to deliver right away having gone No 9 in the draft. “Where you get drafted is unique for each situation. For me, I want to prove to everybody that I deserved to go where I went and continue to surpass expectations of people in the facility or the fanbase or wherever anyone’s assessing my game. But firstly for myself. I set high standards which allows me to play free.”

Training against world-class defenders helps that on a daily basis. “We have some of the best corners in the league so getting those reps against them helped teach me and transition into the professional level. The biggest difference in the NFL is there a lot less mental mistakes. Everybody is very assignment-sound. In college people mess up or don’t get the technique right. In the NFL that doesn’t apply. There are very few mistakes.”

Seeing the Vikings go 5-0 at the head of NFC North puts serious pressure on the Bears, knowing they won’t get a chance to inflict defeat on any divisional rivals until week 11. A trip to England to face the 1-4 Jags seems a very welcome break.