Highlights from London Fashion Week 2024

It was a jam-packed schedule at London Fashion Week this September. We have compiled the biggest trends from the catwalks, and continue with our best shows from the week below.

Jawara Alleyne

Known as Rihanna’s favourite designer, former-Fashion East designer Jawara Alleyne hosted his eponymous label’s show late on Sunday night. With moody red lighting, and seating which snaked about the room, models emerged as part of a show that did exactly what it said on the tin. ‘Island Underground’ fused Alleyne’s Cayman Islands heritage with the raw subculture of London – swathes of fabric, punctured with safety pins and beads, encompassed models who carried driftwood, brass instruments and books. “I’ve always been inspired by a ‘dare to be different’ attitude and I wanted this collection to reflect individuals who have inspired me to find my way of doing things… write my own story,” said Alleyne in a release.

Knwls

The Knwls show took attendees back to school for SS25 — more specifically, the old Central Saint Martins’ campus in Holborn. The catwalk was situated under a glass ceiling, below models stopped and posed against a large cylinder pillar before continuing in front of rows of onlookers. While the signature style codes of the Knwls brand were out in full force – leather, low waists, ribbed jersey, corsetry – the collection had an elevated, ladylike feel due to it including sheer floral dresses, fascinator hats (made by Stephen Jones) and a beautifully constructed bridal gown as the final look. This season, the Y2K Knwls girl had grown-up.

Marques’Almeida

Design-duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida took over St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden for their namesake label’s show on Monday 16 September. Guests were seated in pews as models stomped up close to a contrasting, alarm-pounding soundtrack. The label’s handwriting could be seen clearly throughout the collection – raw hem denim, floral brocade fabrics, peplum waists and structural jackets. This season, the inspirations were drawn from 17th century Dutch portraits, translated into “something fiercely contemporary, raw, and unapologetically subversive”. Ruffles, corsets and satin sat alongside shearling jackets and wide-legged jeans, creating a “tight and loose” aesthetic that managed to feel right up to date.

Edeline Lee

It was designer Edeline Lee’s eponymous label’s first ever London Fashion Week catwalk show – previously it has opted for presentations or more intimate events on the schedule. This season, however, beneath the Millbank Tower, Lady Victoria Starmer showed up with presenter June Sarpong wearing a polka dot jumpsuit and navy jacket from Lee’s SS25 collection. The label has previously been worn by the British First Lady and deputy prime minister Angela Rayner, solidifying its reputation for offering chic yet practical wear for women with busy schedules. This translated into the show – models walking dogs, pushing bicycles and reading newspapers all featured, and Lee debuted her label’s kidswear line with gaggles of adorable mini-mes clutching white balloons.

Ashley Williams

Presenting off-schedule at an intimate gallery space on Eastcastle Street, designer Ashley Williams continued her twisted vision of femininity for SS25. Trailing long blonde wigs had fringes which covered faces, and were adorned with colourful, floral adorned combs. What started out as innocent, with a white bunny and heart pattern repeated on rompers, handbags, dresses, boots and capri pants, turned dark. A cropped, ripped T-shirt emblazoned with the words ‘Happiest Girl In The World’ featured red, dripping gunshot wounds, a prelude to a gun print that would feature across track tops, skirts, dresses and tights, before 3D gun shapes were seamlessly moulded into dresses and separates. Last season’s ‘I heart me’ print featured again on ballet pumps, and manga characters dominated knitted mini dresses, proving that Williams is the master of expressing the dichotomy of being a modern girl in a modern world.

Richard Quinn

Richard Quinn shows are always a painstakingly beautiful affair – and this season was no different. Guests sipped champagne in the lobby of The Dorchester hotel wearing a myriad of previous Quinn looks, including singers Rebecca Lucy Taylor and Leanne Pinnock, Annie Doble and actress Kelly Rutherford. Into the ballroom, where a giant white orchid flower wall provided the perfect backdrop for the label’s SS25 collection. With an orchestra on one side of the audience and a choir on the other, guests were treated to classical renditions of rock songs from Linkin Park and Evanescence, as Richard Quinn’s signature decadent designs of intricate beads, romantic ruffles and feminine bows wafted down the runway. A bridal look constructed entirely of silver beads and topped off with mounds of tulle finished the show.

Labrum

In what might have been the most impressive venue of the season, Labrum took guests to Emirates stadium for its SS25 show. Earlier this year, the brand designed Arsenal’s away kit in partnership with Adidas (a look constructed from this featured within the show), and as founder Foday Dumbaya is a life-long fan of the club, the choice of location was a perfectly fitting one. Footballer Declan Rice even walked in the show, alongside broadcaster Clara Amfo. The collection lent into Labrum’s ‘Designed by an immigrant’ ethos, with West African references throughout. Strong tailoring, textures and shell adorned accessories were shown alongside Labrum’s version of the iconic Adidas Superstar sneaker, complete with a chunky tread sole.