Shopping
London’s best restaurants to fuel the Christmas shopping
Christmas shopping is fun for some, burdensome for others. For almost all, it is a combination thereof. Either way, chances are you’ll need something to eat while perusing endless shelves.
A day’s endeavour seeking out decent socks and the right scent is hungry work and though a Greggs festive bake might sometimes suffice, there are credible restaurants found in many of London’s shopping malls and department stores. Beware wine at lunch may afterwards make you more generous than intended.
The Corner
The Corner in Selfridges is a place for experimental and seasonal cooking from Jackson Boxer, the chef behind Brunswick House in Vauxhall and Orasay in Notting Hill. Dishes in the second floor dining room include smoked butter tagliolini with Comte and chives, a fried chicken sandwich with tamarind mustard, and delica squash with cavolo nero and turmeric. Elsewhere in Selfridges, and also good spots to grab food between Lego purchases, include Din Tai Fung — purveyor of famous Taiwanese dumplings — and Brasserie of Light, one of Richard Caring’s failsafe operations that happens to feature a large Damien Hirst sculpture of a pegasus, hooves and all.
Steven Joyce
Those shopping in Mayfair — perhaps those wanting to make up with someone — should plan the day around a long lunch at Samyukta Nair and Claude Bosi’s bistro Socca. It offers respite from the winter; it is a transportive room with a transportive menu, both of which summon the sun and warmth of the French Riviera at its languid best. It is somewhere built for white wine by the bottle, whopping great tiger prawns, Dover sole and endless gossip. Good luck weaning yourself from the table and back into the bitter cold.
The Cow, Westfield Stratford
The Cow
It will come as no surprise to learn that most of the restaurants at Westfield Stratford are chains — Wahaca, Rosa’s Thai, and Pizza Express among them. Also in the complex is a branch of The Cow, an offshoot of the original pub in west London. By no means is it the same — it lacks the cool of that famous and true haven to Guinness and oysters — but available are dishes such as smoked haddock fishcakes, sausage rolls and chicken wings, all ideal for filling up between purchases. Also worth noting is “The Cow half dozen”: six beef burger sliders and fries for £36 (only a quid up from last year).
Ember Yard, Westfield White City
Ember Yard
Much the same as its Stratford sister, Westfield in White City is a haven for chains. There’s Busaba for Thai food, Mrs Chew’s, a Chinese concept, a branch of the Lebanese group Comptoir Libanais and a Sticks ‘n’ Sushi outpost for good measure. They’re all decent enough, and there’s plenty more besides. But your best bet might be Ember Yard, originally from Soho, that serves Spanish-inspired tapas and small plates. It would be hard to go wrong with an order or two of croquetas — Ember Yard is well known for these — some crispy squid, and a bowl of chorizo picante. Comforting food for a little festive cheer.
Solis, Battersea Power Station
Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures Ltd
There are so very many restaurants at Battersea Power Station. Many of them would be fitting indeed for lunch or dinner during or after Christmas gift buying. Over the road is Joia, Henrique se Passoa’s Iberian rooftop haunt, while above and around the mall’s shops are the likes of Brindisa, Tozi, Le Bab, Wright Brothers, Paris Baguette, and Bao Noodle Bar. A recent addition is Solis, from Arcade and the team behind TATA Eatery. The concept is solid, as the Standard’s Jimi Famurewa noted: chicken or steak with fries; a handful of starters and sides such as gildas, huevos rellenos — boiled eggs with tuna — and grilled corn with crema dressing and Tajin spice mix.
Harrods Dining Hall, Harrods
Surely one of Europe’s most lavish and elegant department stores, it also boasts a substantial dining hall, renovated last year, an upmarket food court of sorts. Inside are multiple Michelin star chefs such as Tom Kerridge and Masayoshi Takayama, serving fish and chips and sushi respectively. There’s a pasta counter from Pasta Evangalists, as well as a Mediterranean grill, while in the bottom left corner is Kinoya, a ramen joint from Niha Mishra. Best-known for her supperclubs in Dubai, the chef has brought her truly excelent bowls of noodle-clad broths exclusively to Harrods. And don’t forget Bjorn Frantzen’s casual but high-end concept Studio Frantzen on the top floor.
Food Halls, ground floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X 7XL, harrods.com
45 Jermyn Street, Fortnum & Mason
Fortnum & Mason
As you might expect from Fortnum & Mason, its headline restaurant is all about glamour, refined service and high-end dishes. Champagne is a must before leaving heavily into a section of the menu dedicated entirely to white truffle — heavenly in a cheese toastie — and a trolley serving a selection of caviar that comes with blinis and scrambled eggs made tableside. After, starters might be Portland crab salad and steak tartare, while Dover sole a la meuniere, or fillet of Glenarm beef would each be a fitting way to follow. All in all, a dining room suitable for those buying a bounty of luxury presents.
Pizza Express, Leadenhall Market
There isn’t much new to say about Pizza Express. It’s just there on countless streets and in numerous shopping malls. But it (rightly) remains a British favourite, almost timeless, and for many would make a perfect festive treat amid the hubbub of Christmas shopping, not least thanks to the chain’s annual festive menu. There is a branch in Leadenhall Market in the City, open late (until 11pm) Tuesday to Thursday, so those looking for Barbour, Windsor Flowers and Kandies’ cigars need not hurry: the dough balls are going nowhere.
Casa Pastor, Coal Drops Yard
Casa Pastor
Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross has fast become an ideal spot for those in need of retail therapy, with shops such as Aesop, A.P.C, Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse, and Space NK. As far as food options go, its restaurant list isn’t far behind, with decent outposts of Lina Stores and Dishoom. Also here is Casa Pastor, the Mexican-style taqueria from Harts Group. Laid back and jovial, there’s a menu of tacos, quesadillas, snacks and cocktails, often set to the tinkle of live music. Its heated outside space would make for a lovely spot — wrapped up warm — to rest with bags of shopping, surrounded by the Christmas lights.