Review: Il Gattopardo in London – Business Traveler USA

With a name evoking Luchino Visconti’s 1963 film, Il Gattopardo, this London restaurant pays homage to ’60s Italy. Located on Albemarle Street, it joins the family of international luxury restaurant brands that include übersuccessful Coya, Amazónico and the intimately elegant Bar des Prés. Here, Italian classics have been reinterpreted by chef Massimo Pasquarelli, a native of the Abruzzo region and someone I know from his decade-long career with Alain Ducasse.

The chic interiors, created in partnership with European design duo Dion & Arles, display a blend of classical design references intermixed with mid-century modern, taking inspiration from the celebrated Italian architect-designer Gio Ponti. A warm color palette with bold splashes of cobalt blue and the requisite elegant leopard print complement polished dark chocolate woods and Italian artwork.

I suggest you carefully study the cocktail menu and try one of the many Negroni variations. The namesake Il Gattopardo Negroni is a well-crafted signature based on a 12-ingredient secret recipe, including amaro and Sicily’s famous fortified wine, Passito di Pantelleria. Other cocktails nod to ma glamorous cinematic era with names like Roman Holiday, a twist on the classic Americano, this one with wild berry kombucha.

The à la carte menu is vast, and we enjoyed a parade of dishes recommended by the chef. First came a delicious pizzette with truffled mascarpone, caramelized onions and truffle shavings, followed by a divinely fresh crudo of sweet red shrimp. Crunchy frittura served with lemon aioli had us fighting for our favorite pieces of squid, pink prawns and zucchini medallions, while the cherrywood smoked burrata arrived accompanied by grilled courgettes sprinkled with pistachio and herbs. Pastas shine at Il Gattopardo, especially the agnolotti made with stracciatella, served in a light roasted tomato cream with 24-month DOP Parmesan; the tortelli filled with ham, mascarpone, fresh peas and beef jus; and the heartier astice, lobster tossed with linguini in a fragrant lobster sauce.

Various ice creams / Photo: Courtesy of Il Gattopardo

Chargrilled lamb chops, an oversized Milanese (a Vercelli veal tomahawk) and the 40-day dry-aged bistecca fiorentina are terrific land-based entrées. For those who desire seafood, must-haves include the sautéed Dover sole with lemon brown butter and capers and the grilled bonito loin, served medium rare with a fresh cannellini bean salad, roasted peppers and salsa verde. Among the many tempting desserts—Bomba Alaska, gianduja hazelnut chocolate bar—two stand out and are sharable for the table: the family-style service of tiramisu and the housemade gelato mantecato, with fior di latte ice cream, chocolate sauce and a variety of toppings.
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